20th anniversary of Orma del Diavolo

To delve into what has been that Tenuta San Jacopo’s corporate journey, starting with the acquisition by the Cattaneo’s family, the occasion is the 20th anniversary of Orma del Diavolo, one of the winery’s iconic wines, celebrated with a vertical tasting of the most significant vintages led by Cristiano Cini, president of AIS Toscana (Italian Sommelier Association). A selection that allows one to appreciate the evolutions that have taken place over time, already from the label, which in the last decade has gone from a black background to the new brand, highlighted on white. The evidence of an innovation that is obviously perceived in the glass as well.

The wine derives its origin and strength from the name of the vineyard from which it comes, an ancient rock on which is engraved a shape that in the past the settlers, according to ancient superstitions, had identified as the Devil’s Footprint (Orma del Diavolo), and was nothing more than the boundary with the lands of Baron Ricasoli, considered a figure to be feared because of his fame and the power he held throughout Chianti and in part of the Valdarno Superiore.

Orma Del Diavolo Is An Evolving Blend, which puts Sangiovese in the first row, generally present at 50%, with a second half made up of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, in an alternation of percentages that, year by year, seek to enhance the characteristics sought. The Peculiarities of the Production Area, with a Sandstone-Based Soil, thus with the presence of Sand, help the wine in terms of finesse and elegance.

It is 2013 one of the years that mark the recent history of Tenuta San Jacopo, when Costantino Cattaneo rises to the company helm and after a decade of collaboration with Sean O’Callagan, the oenological direction passes to Maurizio Alongi. It is precisely the new team that pursues the specific goal of exploring and enhancing how Sangiovese can more clearly express its identity. The direction followed is therefore to unload more and more barriques, also for the other two grape varieties in the blend, and to simplify vinification, decreasing maceration times, never longer than a month, also avoiding late harvests. A process that thus also leads to enhancing what are the differences between the various vintages.

Thus we start with the tasting of the first bottle presented, namely the 2009, which is still taut and vibrant, thus highlighting the longevity of the raw material and showing its evolution in the nose. In 2013, the warmth enhances the wood component, giving a more muscular wine, with a larger volume and a finish of fruit under spirit, with a return of vanilla.

With the 2014 vintage, different from the previous one, much colder and rainier, there is a new imprint, imprinted by the arrival at the helm of the property of Costantino Cattaneo and the oenological direction entrusted to Maurizio Alongi. The first impact is that of a search for the primary element on the nose, that is, the fruit, with less barrique and better tannin management, with the intention of obtaining a wine that is less concentrated, also taking advantage of the characteristics of the terroir. In 2015 there is a further step in the direction sought, with a vintage that presents itself as a mix of richness and drinkability among the best of the decade, thanks also to a wood that seems to almost disappear in the taste-olfactory finish. Then, in 2016, taking advantage of the vintage defined by many in the area as “almost perfect” with mild spring and strong summer temperature ranges, the integration of purity of red fruit, progressiveness of tannin and vibrant freshness of Orma del Diavolo seems to be realized in one of its best forms.

The latest vintage on offer, the 2019 returns a product in line with the team’s objectives, encapsulating a great promise of quality, with tannin still evolving, accompanied by a bursting acidity that makes this bottle a device at the moment unexploded, but ready to deflagrate with taste, as well as the winery, projecting it with momentum into a forward-looking future.